Sunday, May 13, 2012

Kyoto


I am officially moving to Japan. Forget friends, family, school, crawfish, all that, Japan is like a drug...once you've had a taste, you gotta have seconds.


My mouth is sore from all the praise I keep giving Japan. Every time I go out to eat, it's "MMMMM, oishi, oishi, oishi!!!" Every time I go to see a sight, it's "WoWWWWowowooowwww!! Kirei, kirei, kirei!" Every time I see a Japanese woman, child, or pet, it’s “D’awww!!! My god sooooo kawaii!!!” You would think after a while I’d be so tired of how perfect everything is and just become jaded and unimpressed, but seriously, I just keep getting more and more impressed when even I don’t think it’s possible!!


I wish I were just being cheesy, but Japan is like a dream I've never dared to dream. It's beyond beautiful, but mostly because Japanese society and people are the most civilized and sophisticated in the world. I have never seen children more well groomed and better behaved, women more stylish and demure, locals more helpful and polite, tourist locations better managed, transportation systems more efficient, food better prepared, people more meticulous....I guess what I'm trying to say is, yes, Kyoto is beautiful, but its attractions would not be as pleasant to visit if it were in any country other than Japan. The tender love and care, and most importantly respect, put into the exquisite preservation of these cultural sites is what sets this completely apart from other famous tourist circuses (ex: Angkor Wat, UGH)


Here is the difference between Japan and the rest of Asia: Japanese people go to watch the evanescent beauty of cherry blossoms, sit quietly to ponder the meaning of life and love, share neatly boxed lunches with their family, and gather all their trash on their person to take home. They leave the area more pristine than before they came. I kid you not, but here is what I witnessed from a group of chinese tourists (this was only ONE of many instances of disrespect): Ran around trampling the grass and flowers, giggling like mad and taking pictures at every tree as to get in the way of everyone else’s photographs, yelling boisterously and picking the sakura, and get this…they brought a fucking HUGE RED CHINESE FLAG, spread it all over the lawn, and took millions of pics with it. Who the hell does that? Next time I go visit France, I’ll be sure to bring a huge American flag and wave it around yelling “USA! USA!” or bring a huge Vietnam independence flag to China and lay it across the Great Wall.

OK, enough ranting. About Kyoto: it's basically the ancient capital of Japan. If you like temples, gardens, geishas, and tradition, come to Kyoto. I visited a million of the temples and got really tired of them after a while, so I'll just post the best ones.

Zen rock garden. How the hell do they make those lines in the sand without stepping on it?

A temple amongst the trees. A hell of a climb up to it though!


Japanese gardens...what the fuck man. How you so stunning? How is that moss so green, those trees so dewy? 


Don't get excited: they're fake geishas (pay a ton of money for the day, get dolled up as such). I will tell you about my extremely fortuitous encounter with a real geisha afterwards.

How adorable are Japanese schoolchildren? Each school has its own awww-inducing uniform and they walk around together everywhere making me want to die of cute overdose

Japan temples have these little prayer papers where you can write down things and either hang them up or, like this one, dissolve in magic water


This was seriously the only problem I could think of at the moment

It really does dissolve!

There were "love stones" at this temple where you had to close your eyes and walk from one to the other. If you reach it without opening your eyes, your love is in your life right now. If not, your love is still wandering out there somewhere. This girl was being guided by her friend so not exactly fair lol.

I consider a "nice walk" a stroll in Piedmont Park with all the pigeon poop and hobos. Japanese people walk right outside their backdoor and take a walk along this. Imagine all these trees during April when the sakura is in bloom in Kyoto. FML.

Remember the scene in Memoirs of a Geisha when the little girl runs down a gorgeous hall lined with red torii?

This place was much more amazing in real life! I was mostly astounded by how well preserved and freshly painted the toriis were. There were soooo many of them. I couldn't even walk through the whole thing....have no idea how many of these red giants there were, but I would guess in the thousand. And each one was different in some way!

Also in Memoirs of a Geisha was the bamboo forest. I was like, how does this place actually exist? Looks too good to be true...



I was in utter shock for half an hour just standing there watching the bamboo sway in the wind and the occasional flutter of gold leaves fall from the sky

People tie all the bad fortunes around the temples and take the good ones home with them






This was a temple painted in real gold!

I saw a guy in Japan with my backpack...I'm not special anymore :(


The geisha district at night. They're not prostitutes like most people believe, just highly skilled entertainers in the traditional arts :)




Story time! So I was walking down this exact street in Gion, marveling at how beautiful all the old buildings were...it was a full moon, the lanterns were on, the tourist vans had all left and Inoel and I were the only ones walking down this quiet alley. I turned to snap this photo. Out of the corner of my eye, I saw a flash of blue kimono. When I turned around, I saw a geisha running into a small wooden house a few meters up the street. I nearly screamed and gasped in excitement, "OMG THERE'S A GEISHA!!!" Inoel said, no way, because geisha are extremely difficult to see in their natural environment (walking around in the street from appointment to appointment). The only way you can see them is usually at some performance or event, or have fat stacks to shell out for a very exclusive night with geisha entertainment. Other than that, geisha rarely walk because their kimonos are deathly expensive, and when they do, it's only to hop from the taxi to their destinations, and damn they are super fast walkers in those ridiculous wooden shoes! I insisted that I saw her, and noticed the taxi was still waiting at the end of the alley. I decided to be patient and wait, so that eventually she would come back out and hop into the taxi. I was right! After about 20 minutes (yes, I am a huge desperate stalker), she emerged in all her glory and ignored all of our begs and pleas for a picture and scurried away like the swiftest little bunny straight into the awaiting taxi. You know how in the movie, they say that a geisha can stop a man dead in his tracks with one fast glance? Well, I am no man, and she certainly did not bother to glance my way, but damn my heart literally stopped. I was ready to propose or at least give her all my money. It was spell-binding and magical...I can't believe we were the only ones who saw her so late at night! Inoel told me that I was extremely lucky. The only time he or any of his friends had ever seen a geisha was when everyone in his tour group paid about $7,000 for one night of tea, dancing, music, and quick conversation with a 2 maiko (apprentice geisha) and their big sister. I only paid $2 for the bus ride to Gion :D


Traditional sit-down restaurant

What's a trip to the ancient capital without sushi?

Thursday, May 10, 2012

First onsen experience

**read the last post first for cherry blossoms and such

I had my first onsen experience a few days ago.

An onsen is a Japanese hot spring. If you’re never been to a hot springs before, it’s basically hot sulfurous water bubbling out of the ground and you get in to boil like a lobster for like half an hour. In Japan (as always, the best at anything and everything), it’s taken up a notch. An onsen is not just a hot spring, it’s a whole experience with all the pomp and circumstance. From the onsen location to the rustic Japanese inn to the etiquette to the wide range of water types and therapeutic effects…the complete package with all the trimmings is necessary to truly experience an onsen.

Before I went to Japan, I knew that there were many rules and etiquettes you must obey in a bathhouse. I researched a LOT, and could not find a single resource that really describes exactly what happens in an onsen and how you’re supposed to behave. Usually I hate writing too much, but let me describe to you in graphic detail the very interesting experience I had at my first hot spring.

First of all, the onsen I picked turned out to be one of the best in the country. I met a woman on the bus ride there who told me that she’s been to 300 onsens (there are 3000 in Japan) and this was her favorite! OK, so far so good!

"Train" is not a good word to describe Japanese rail systems. They are extremely efficient, reliable, and on time right down to the second. The bullet train I took went past the ocean and suddenly went UNDER the ocean. Don't ask me how or why, but it did and it's amazing.

At the entrance of the onsen complex


Cottages where you can stay for the night if you have a fat wallet


You can see some men bathing there on the left!

Cameras were strictly forbidden beyond these steps for obvious reasons, so here are some stock photos of what the onsen itself looks like:

Right out of a fantasy novel

Beautiful during the winter too! Wish I coulda been there :(



I have to note that this is one of the very few onsens in the country that does mixed bathing. Had to end up with such for my first one, didn’t I?

OK, so here is what happened:

Went past mixed bathing pool on way to lockers. Saw many old men sitting on the ledge with nothing but tiny blue towels covering their situations. Went into the women’s only bath first. Only one there. Stripped naked. Brought towel in with me. Washed my body (you’re always supposed to do this before getting into the mineral water). Hopped in. Hot as hell, but felt really good. All of a sudden, three naked Japanese ladies walked in with flips flaps a'flapping and hopped into the pool too. I’m sitting in the bath pretending I’m not embarrassed by them pretending not to look at me, and them pretending like they're not embarrassed by me pretending not looking at them. Bath water itself is milky bluish white so nothing is seen below the surface. Everyone but me eventually gets out and runs through the back corridor to get into mixed bathing pool. I’m like, what the hell, I only live once, and this is fucking Japan, let’s go balls out (literally). Get out of women’s pool as more nakeys are arriving. Cautiously creep out into mixed pool clinging onto my towel like it’s penicillin. Rocks at the edge of pool entrance positioned to discreetly hide you as you get in and slip out of towel. Men definitely more unabashed than the women. Everyone is 60+ years old. I won’t go into detail about what exactly I saw, but let me just say, the sun was shining on places where it don’t normally shine.

Reminded me of this exact scene in Naruto. I was just like this, beet red from both embarrassment and boiling hot water.

Are they looking? Wait, am I looking? Omg, everyone's looking at me! Fuck, now I'm looking at everyone!

Did I like the experience? Sure. It’s extremely Japanese. This is a country full of contrasts: ancient yet ultra modern. Traditional yet trendy. Reserved yet outlandish. Here were the sweetest smiling old people fumbling over the rocks on their way to the onsen, chattering quietly to themselves and behaving in the most polite manner. Ok, so now here they are again totally uninhibited spread eagle and splashing around in joust wearing nothing but their birthday suit and a tiny little towel. This is just what they do. And they never cease to amaze.

As for the onsen itself, it was spectacular. My god, so beautiful and peaceful, surrounded by mountains, rivers, valleys, and waterfalls and charming little villages. The setting couldn’t have been better. The water was supremely nice and such a gorgeous color too. My skin was visibly steaming the whole way home!

Some more pictures from the trip so far:

Only in Japan


Star fort in Hakodate. It's a fort. With a moat. Surrounded by sakura. In the shape of a star. In the middle of a gigantic city. Only in Japan.

Hanami (cherry blossoms viewing parties) where people reflect on the life, love, the universe, and everything in between while eating delicious bento

Omgosh this place was soooo good. The virgin mary looking lovingly at that cheeseburger exactly captures the holiness of the flavors. Japan does American way better than America, and I already hate American food. I got a burger and "cookies and cream" shake, except the burger is deer meat and the shake was black sesame!

A view at the top like no other. I dare someone to show me a place with a nighttime panorama more stunning that this.

As it got darker...


Is that....a ninja? See this is why I love Japan. You go to a beautiful traditional temple and all of a sudden you see a random crazy thing like dis!


View at the top of the tower of Sapporo



Even their government building is badass!

Thousands of tiny paper cranes symbolize prayers for people who suffered during the recent disaster

*sigh* am I in Italy or what?


The other side is very beautiful too!


Japanese people are extremely tidy and efficient. All the trash cans have numerous categorizations. And if they can't find a trash can, they will literally carry their trash around with them the whole day

Is this the most beautiful store or what!? They sell high end music boxes of all things...there is one selling for $10,000!!

Have you seen a more beautiful restaurant? This is where they filmed Kill Bill!

The food was pretty nice, but mostly I just couldn't believe I was sitting right where the fighting scene between Uma and that school girl chick with the numchucks took place

Everything is so fresh and sweet, you gotta eat it raw, and trust me, I think raw is gross but man wtf why they always gotta exceed expectations!?

Eat your heart out!

Friday, May 4, 2012

First dinner

Rich and creamy ikura (salmon roe)

Beef so beautiful you had to eat it raw. Forget everything you ever knew about beef. There was no blood, no smell of raw meat, no stringiness...only the buttery feel of rich, indescribably fulfilling protein swishing around in your mouth. Made me shitlessly happy. Why can we not has in America!?

This dude is surely contemplating how awesome Japan is while the chef whips it up on the grill

This is what I came to Tokyo for! No one does ramen like the Japanese. The broth was so heavenly I felt like I was drowning in my own taste buds. And that egg! What the fuck kinda chicken did they harvest that from? Best part of pork ramen is, of course, the pork...have you ever eaten something so satisfying it almost made you tear? I've been dying to know what ramen in one of the best noodle shops in Japan would taste like...seriously the best soup of any kind I've ever had

Couldn't resist ordering another! This time with spicy chili...I can die nao.

Prepare for an onslaught of japan posts!